Old Fitzgerald 9 Year Bottled-in-Bond Wheated Bourbon Review: Tasting Through the Crushable Spring 2025 Release
- Nick Anderson
- Jun 23
- 4 min read
“All you need in this life is ignorance and confidence, and then success is sure.”
- Mark Twain
It's no stretch to say that much that is fanciful tends to be overpriced. The Old Fitzgerald decanter series is a bit of an exception to that rule, though, as pricing has historically instead been based on the age of the whiskey within. Since the fall of 2023, though, that relationship seems to have decoupled, according to a spectacular visual from Whiskey Decision.
Despite changes in price, Heaven Hill has stuck to a twice-yearly cadence for this wheated bourbon, bottled at the ever-consistent bottled-in-bond 100 proof. It's a fickle release for me, as most of the wheated bourbon mash bill from Heaven Hill is to my taste buds. I can't seem to crack into the Larceny lineup and find anything I enjoy. Elijah Craig, however, I adore. There's no denying these bottles are gorgeous, and I've certainly enjoyed my fair share of the releases throughout the years. There's no doubt there's been some lovely whiskey bottled in this decanter, especially the VVS 13 year, which topped our charts for the bourbon of the year in 2024. Still, some might argue this fanciful presentation is something of a ruse—a bourgeois bottle design aimed to mislead consumers into thinking they're getting a top-shelf pour. Luckily for you, my dear reader, at AmongstTheWhiskey.com, we only review based on the quality of the whiskey within, so let's get to talking about that, shall we?
Company on Label: Old Fitzgerald Distillery (Heaven Hill)
Whiskey Type: Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey
Mash Bill Percentages: 68% corn, 20% wheat, 12% malted barley
Proof: 100°
Age: 9 years
MSRP: $130
Further identification: This wheated bourbon from Heaven Hill is a biannual staple for the brand, bottled in their fanciful decanter as a nod to the storied past of the Fitzgerald name
Nose: On first lifting the well-rested glass to my nose, I find simple caramel, a bit dry in aromatic texture. Oodles of black pepper, clove, and vanilla come across as synthetic—like a mass-produced bourbon-scented candle. Aromas of fresh dried linen are intriguing but lack an inherent enjoyment factor. There's certainly a strong character here as I begin to pick up hints of a slightly floral deodorant, burlap, and waves of that classic Heaven Hill vanilla. After another long rest, there's a return to classic, light caramel that is nearly ubiquitous in well-aged Kentucky bourbon. Returning the nose to the glass after a few sips reduces the pour to smoldering ash and oak water. The capricious liquid within is unsettlingly unstable at times, my mind shifting towards sour cream and onion dip during long, searching inhales. As my excitement with this glass fades, I find myself yearning to just sip through the rest of it so I can move on to a better pour to end my night. Nearing that moment, I find the empty glass smells of cracked plastic and light grass.
Palate: My first sip is light, playful, and sweet as lemon curd and green tea come together. After a brief moment, rich caramel sauce and flan coat the tongue in confectionary delight before a linger of cheesecake and Brazilian chocolate dance in the mouth. There's an underlying fruit sweetness that is reticent to reveal itself clearly. Given the prior nosing experience, I'm a bit surprised at how much I enjoyed that first sip. After another small swish and swallow, the profile picks up a touch of tannic and astringent characteristics, with the tip of my tongue prickling under an obviously manageable 100 proof. This is a dynamic dram that doesn't try to do too many things; instead, it does a few things well. The slightly oily, quite creamy mouthfeel is probably my favorite part of sipping through this year's spring release of Old Fitzgerald. On concurrent sips with less patience, the slow fade of the creamy vanilla tones doesn't have a chance to break down before mingling with grilled pineapple and pear liqueur. The dressing of cinnamon here isn't overbearing, though I do find this pour to be fickle day-to-day. As the glass nears empty, I find the profile doesn't have any further complexities to offer the palate, but it is more consistent than the nose, which is a strong positive in this case. My last sip regales me with tales of caramel monkey bread and peaking early. The finish is medium to short with just a hint of mint underneath German Weizenbier.
TL;DR: An interesting balance between cozy and bold, this year's spring release is certainly sippable
Rating: 3.5/5
This is a crushable whiskey in every sense of the word. While this didn't shine consistently enough to earn a higher score after 5 tastings, there were certainly a few times I really enjoyed it during my lengthly review process. After much deliberation, I've discovered that it shines best as a pairing with a rare steak dinner.
Let this be a reminder to you: taste your whiskey several times before you ever write it off! You might be sleeping on something you really enjoy under certain conditions. If you're looking for some alternative recommendations, I'd suggest hunting down a bottle of Henry McKenna for much less, or if you really want to splurge for the best... go for Heaven Hill Heritage Collection 17 year bourbon.
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