A Rare Historical Tasting of Early 1900s Pennsylvania and Maryland Rye Whiskeys at West Overton Museum
- Amongst the Whiskey Team
- 23 hours ago
- 22 min read
Updated: 1 hour ago
"Would now, it were old Orleans whiskey, or old Ohio, or unspeakable old Monongahela!"
Between the early 1800s and Prohibition, Pennsylvania and Maryland were the epicenters of rye whiskey production. Through careful preservation, the dream of a modern rye renaissance has never been closer to a reality. In December of 2025, in celebration of Repeal Day, members of the Vintage Whiskey Society descended on Western Pennsylvania to answer a haunting old question: "What is the historical difference between Pennsylvania rye and Maryland rye?"
Like any good researcher does, we went right to the source, touring three distilleries with deep ties to historical rye whiskey-making practices, before settling into a massive historic tasting of vintage whiskies to taste the truth for ourselves.
The first place we looked was Iron City Distilling, where master distiller, whiskey writer, and whiskey educator Matt Strickland broke down some of the misinformation still rampant in modern whiskey circles. We learned about all the authentic characteristics of a Pre-Prohibition Pennsylvania rye, including local heirloom grains like Monongahela and Rosen rye, floor-malted barley from nearby suppliers, a custom Monongahela yeast strain developed with Lallemand, dual distillation on a pot still and rare three-chamber still (which showed tastable differences from the same mash), transparent mashbills, low 101 proof barrel entry, small-batch production, and even an experimental American Single Malt piped directly underground from Iron City Brewery. We intentionally sought out a taste of his Rosen rye project straight from the barrel. Rosen rye is that heirloom grain we mentioned, a SeedSpark project championed by Laura Fields, who joined us for the trip, and Matt's whiskey proved to be an exceptional example of old low-and-slow three-chamber pot still distillation brought into the modern era. If you're curious to taste this history for yourself, you'll be glad to know that the first-ever bottles produced exclusively by Iron City Distilling are now available for sale at the distillery gift shop under their brand Bessemer Rye. We recognize it's been an expensive endeavor, but one we certainly look forward to tasting to fruition.
Next up was Liberty Pole Spirits, who you may have seen on this site before for their exceptional Monongahela full-proof rye whiskey, which we love. Jim, Ellen, Rob, and Kevin showed us an incredible time, also showing off a young Rosen rye, which happened to have been filled on Nick's birthday (he liked to think he has some claim on it due to this fact). Comparing this to their fully matured Rosen Rye bottling confirmed that they know what they are doing on those pot stills. During our time at Liberty Pole we learned three key things:
Rye rules everything around PA. Monongahela rye is central to Liberty Pole’s identity, which leans back on historic rye traditions from the area, which were all but wiped out completely by Prohibition. Putting out consistent high-rye mash bills and using historic grains like Rosen rye honor and advance the PA rye legacy.
It's pot still or bust, baby. When you use great grains, it would be silly to strip out all the local character on an industrial column still. Liberty Pole has a 1,000-gallon stripping still & a 600-gallon spirit still that engineers Rob and Kevin have tuned up just perfectly. They then go into the barrel at a low 108 proof, further leaning into the authenticity of heritage rye.
Their food and cocktail game is ELITE. Ellen runs the show, but Chef Alex shows up to impress. With killer apps and perfectly cooked dry-aged tomahawk steaks curated for us alongside a divine cherry bounce digestif, we left with full bellies and fuller hearts.
After these quick studies and a few sidebar pours, it was time to apply all we learned so far and really nerd out. Enter West Overton Village. It's literally a village, which still has a feature-rich museum and a fully functional micro-distillery on the premises that is run completely solo by Amanda Eutsey. These are the same grounds where Henry Clay Frick was born and Abraham Overholt, son of Henry Overholt (also known as Heinrich Oberholtzer), would have lived. We got a full tour from Amanda as well as executive director Aaron Hollis Jr., where we left no stone unturned, tracing fingers along fabrics that have been dutifully preserved since the early 1800s. If you only go to one whiskey history museum in your life, make it this one. Another Pennsylvania whiskey historian who joined us for our tasting weekend, Sam Komlenic, contributed a significant portion of the bottles on display here in the museum.
Finally it was time for Vintage Whiskey Society cofounder Curt Kolcun and his bottle curation skills to shine. The table was set, all the important players were in the room, and a quiet reverence settled over an otherwise excited and rambunctious crew.
All the Bottlings We Explored
In total, 14 bottles were collected for this tasting, the brunt of which were provided by Vintage Whiskey Society cofounder Curt Kolcun, with additional bottles being provided by Greg Cloyd (Thomas Moore Possum Hollow and the Carstairs Whiskey), Hillel Leitner (Spring Dale), and Benjamin Montoya (Old Farm) with no expectation of monetary kickback. The generosity of these individuals, as well as the general kindness we see prevalent in the whiskey community today, is truly heartwarming. We are constantly trying to one-up each other in acts of kindness. The best of friends compete in sympathy, benevolence, knowledge, and magnanimity rather than the typical frivolous frights of social order. That's what sets the Vintage Whiskey Society apart, and why we were so glad to get to taste with them!
As with any live bottle opening, there is a risk that the whiskey isn't going to be presentable for a group tasting. Three of the original bottlings suffered such a fate: a Thomas Moore Possum Hollow Pure Rye Whiskey, an Old Cabinet Whiskey from the late 1800s, and a Highspire Pure Rye Whiskey. Curt Kolcun isn't just any vintage whiskey enthusiast, though. Knowing this fact, he had backups ready to slide in to the lineup and save the day.
For any date ranges that are known, they will follow the format of "year distilled - year bottled." A tilde (~) represents educated approximations where specific dates are not available. Tasting notes and thoughts are the opinions of Amongst the Whiskey writers Nick Anderson and Jes Smyth, but some sections may have been bolstered with notes from the many legendary tasters in our presence. Now, onto the tasting, shall we?
Historic Pennsylvania Ryes
John Wagner & Sons, Old Rye No.3
Bottle Information: This fire-distilled, unblended rye comes from a prominent Philadelphia grocer and high-end liquor merchant who utilized the city as the primary commercial and bottling center for eastern Pennsylvania rye. There is a Pre-Prohibition stamp on the label with a Pennsylvania liquor control on the neck, and it was likely a Pre-Prohibition bottle sold after Prohibition, although no specific year could be uncovered. The shop was located at 233 Dock Street, Philadelphia, PA.
Nose: We notice aromas of a hay barn, old wood crates, and dusty bookstore carpets. It's soft and muted and subtly sweet with hints of lemon hard candies in Grandma's candy dish. Further into the nosing experience, we find the aromas to be well-worn and leathery. The empty glass smells of fresh cracked pepper, wet dirt, and malted chocolate.
Palate: This leads sweet, with butterscotch and brown sugar. Nick found a slight floofy character to the tastes, while Jes found a whisper of dill and tissue paper from an old shoe box. The finish was short, while the flavors fell off rather quickly in subsequent sips, ending with flashes of stale black pepper flakes and old graham crackers.
Further Thoughts: A great opener for what's surely to be a whirlwind tasting of vintage Pennsylvania rye!
Humphrey & Martin Bouquet Whiskey Bottled ~1905 - 1919
Bottle Information: Bottled by Humphrey & Martin, a wholesale liquor and distilling firm located at 401-403 North Third St. in Philadelphia. This was likely distillate from Pennsylvania Pure Rye Distillery, and based on the bottle type and details, it's believed the bottling year is between 1905 and 1919.
Nose: We both agree that this smells huge—and a lot like flavored whiskey. Notes of prune juice, clove, plum pudding, cranberry, raisin, and ginger dominated this lively and fun nose. Nick likened the aromas to a Demerara rum cocktail. The empty glass smells of hookah tobacco and dusty barn floors.
Palate: Fruit forward and daiquiri sweet. The Demerara rum cocktail presents here as it did on the nose. Additional sips offer pops of Christmas spices like nutmeg and clove. The sweetness begins to burn off into richer notes of cinnamon, melted sugar, vanilla frosting, and canned pumpkin. The finish is chewy and medium in length.
Further Thoughts: Laura Fields provided additional information on the state of affairs in whiskey during the time this was bottled, specifically that rectifiers of the time would be pooling together their resources and drawing whiskey from the collective stash for their own purposes—sometimes rectifying, or adding things in like prune juice and other additives for flavor and presentability. She later confirmed that "Pennsylvania Pure Rye was not, in most cases, adulterated in any way. 'Pure Rye' was essentially for Pre-Prohibition rye what the 'straight' designation is for bourbon. The term 'Pure Rye' was therefore an older expression than 'straight' and is decidedly clearer to the consumer. There were just as many pure rye whiskeys with prune juice additives as there were straight bourbons with adulterations. The industry was always going to have exceptions, but the old, trusted brands didn’t deviate from Pure Rye, unadulterated practices, because they knew to protect their interests in the market." So while this particular whiskey may have begun its life as a "Pure Rye," this bottling sure doesn't taste like just straight rye whiskey in our opinion, likely having something added to it at the time of bottling by the Humphrey & Martin firm.
Large Monongahela Pure Rye Bottled in Bond 1915 - 1919
Bottle Information: Distilled Fall 1915, Bottled in Bond Spring 1919, The Large Distilling Co., Pittsburgh, PA. Under the ownership of Henry Large and later owner Frederick Renziehausen, the "Large" brand became an industrialized force in the 19th century with roots dating back to the 18th century. Known most famously for its Large Monongahela Rye, this distillery was considered the model for efficiency and quality of product within the industry.
Nose: Hello, yeast! This is fermentation tank sweetness and expresses a much more modern vibe. There's a nice balance between oak spice, pepper, and oodles of baked goods like honey buns and lemon scones. The aromas evolve quite well, and we're quite impressed this is a whiskey from the early 19th century! Nick had a fun quote coming back up for air after a long inhale: "This is dressed reserved, but her ankles give away her true elegance."
Palate: This tastes like an easy and sweet lemon breeze. But we weren't fooled by this pretty lady; this is rye after all, and she has a nice cinnamony kick. The flavors mimic the nose, baked goods, lemon frosting, and hints of ground cinnamon, all well integrated and perfectly preserved. The finish is long and lingers yet paradoxically ephemeral, which is why we sipped this pour in its entirety.
Further Thoughts: Curt recently posted a wonderful summary of the history of The Large Distilling Co., which we have included below.
"From Revolutionary Soldier to Global Gold Medals: The Saga of Large Distillery:
Did you know one of America’s most celebrated rye whiskeys began with a Revolutionary War veteran? The story of the Large Distillery is a 127-year saga of American history, spanning from the birth of the nation to the onset of Prohibition.
The story begins with the Large family, French Huguenot immigrants who arrived in America while it was still a British colony. Among them was John Large, who served as a soldier in the Revolutionary War. After the conflict ended in the early 1790s, John moved to Allegheny County, Pennsylvania, where he bought a farm and built the first distillery, launching a three-generation family legacy.
The tradition passed to John’s son, Jonathan, who established a new distillery on Peters Creek using grain from his own fields. Later, the operation fell to Henry Large, born on the Fourth of July 1836. Henry produced “Large Monongahela Pure Rye Whiskey,” a brand established by his grandfather that gained a national reputation for excellence.
While the Large’s built the reputation, a partner named Frederick C. Renziehausen took it global. Purchasing the property and recipe in 1895 after Henry’s death, Renziehausen modernized the plant. He connected the distillery directly to the Wabash Railroad to end the arduous mountain hauling and built massive fireproof warehouses.
Under this new leadership, Large Monongahela Rye won grand prizes and gold medals across the world, including in Paris (1900), St. Louis (1904), and London (1914). In a bitter irony, the distillery’s final triumph came during Prohibition in 1923. The U.S. government allowed a shipment to the World’s Fair in Rio de Janeiro, where it won yet another gold medal while being illegal back home.
The distillery would become part of National Distillers Products in 1933, providing their named brand as well as producing Old Overholt. The distillery finally closed in 1955."
Old Overholt Rye Bottled in Bond Fall 1916 - Spring 1930
Bottle Information: This bottle was produced at the famous Broadford Distillery located on the banks of the Youghiogheny River. Before the four-story-high three-chamber still was in operation, there was Henry Oberholtzer—who later changed his name to Overholt—and his family, who began distilling on their farm in West Overton in 1810. Following his death in 1813, his two sons took over the family whiskey operation. After Abraham bought out Christian's shares of the farm, he went about expanding the operation and, as a result, produced the renowned Monongahela-style rye still known today as "Old Overholt Rye." Old Overholt remains one of the longest-standing whiskey brands in America today, and it's Abraham's portrait you'll see on that label.
Nose: There is nothing shy here as the aromas greet us with deep confidence. Straight away, this is our kind of rye right here. Nick found broadleaf tobacco and leather while Jes ventured into the tones of buttered graham crackers and citrus cream. Neither of us left our glasses disappointed.
Palate: Oh wow, this is as creamy as can be and is only deepening our experience. This is "rye as rye should be." Minty, effervescent, and beautiful. We find caramel and lemon frosting over vanilla pound cake and peach compote with freshly cracked black pepper. The finish was medium in length with a lovely tobacco funk lingering.
Further Thoughts: This was the classy gentleman set to accompany the lady at Large with her elegant ankles. The noise level in the room grew tenfold as we explored this glass, and for good reason—there was much to say, mostly that of excitement. This was the rye whiskey we were waiting for in this lineup and truly stands out in our mind as a pinnacle-quality pour that fully embodies the core purpose of this tasting.
John Gibson's Son & Co's Celebrated Old Rye Whiskey 1909 - 1917
Bottle Information: Located in Gibsonton Mills, Pennsylvania, on the Monongahela River, John Gibson, a Philadelphia liquor merchant, built what was considered the largest whiskey distillery in the world at the time. The name listed on the bottle as "Gibson Distilling Co." suggests the bottling timeframe was between 1909 and 1917. This bottle was sold at Henry R. Scholouch, a store established in 1881 until Henry's death in 1917. The bottle has "1918" in pencil on the label, though there's no way to know if that is relevant for the bottling outside of a potential purchase date.
Nose: There's a distinct meatiness to these aromas, like a plate of steaks at a table. Soon after we find perfumed florals, sweet lemon lollipop, and Madagascar vanilla. Further inhales give off scents of pine, reminding Nick of some Willett ryes. Jes is reminded of a well-organized bookshelf with how clean and consistent these aromas are. Overall, the glass settles into simple territory with notes of caramel sauce with a bit of flatness developing late in the nosing.
Palate: This is creamy with notes of peach rinds and cream soda. There's funky ginger ale and a hint of years-old bubble gum. Sipping further on, we find root beer and begin to wonder, is this all soda? There's also a hint of anise and an oaky funk, like a freshly washed cutting board drying in the sink. The finish is medium with a funky chalky malt.
Further Thoughts: We both agree the nose misled us into a palate that did not align. Perhaps this would have been celebrated more properly had we tasted it prior to the powerhouse that was Old Overholt. This pour proved to be a good reminder that comparison is not the thief of joy when it comes to whiskey, but rather a great lesson for our palates.
Good Old Guckenheimer Bottled in Bond 1914 - 1920
Bottle Information: Initially a contract distillery, Asher Guckenheimer eventually built a massive operation that became famous for its quality. Their primary brand, Good Old Guckenheimer, was considered a premium spirit and won a gold medal at the World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago in 1893. It was eventually shut down by Prohibition in 1920, but the strict adherence to traditional rye production remains a focal point of this western Pennsylvanian distillery.
Nose: Big and in your face, the first whiff leads with bold balsamic vinegar, followed excitedly by fermented prunes and stewed plums. This is bright, bold, and big on fruits. It feels finished, and perhaps it is; however, it was confirmed this is not rectified. Swirling produces floral perfumes, Christmas spices, orange peel, and bubbling sugar. This is an unforgettable pour right here. Giving this time to breath does wonders to this whiskey.
Palate: Oh yes, bring on the sticky and thick mouthfeel. Like the nose, fruit leads the way with prunes, plums, and dried figs. There's also sweet lemon custard and hints of a resinous cedar cigar box. Additional sips are light and sweet like sugar-extracted strawberry. This is dominantly oily and juicy, and as time passes, the flavors only improve in quality. The finish is medium to long with prune, chocolate, puffs of fireplace smoke, and raisin.
Further Thoughts: Jes was grateful to revisit this pour following the conclusion of the tasting, where she confirmed it was one of her favorites from the lineup. The group debated this one heavily, with many offering approval of the quality here, with Josh Feldman rating it a 92, for example.
Sweet Hickory Rye Bottled in Bond Spring 1908 - Spring 1916
Bottle Information: Distilled by a sister distillery to Guckenheimer & Bros, often referred to as the Montrose Distillery, this expression was distilled and bottled by the Pennsylvania Distilling Company, Registered Distillery No. 8, located in the 23rd district of Pennsylvania, Buffalo Township, Butler County as confirmed by the tax strip. Curt Kolcun further described the historical significance here, stating, "Pennsylvania Distilling Company was a key Monongahela rye producer whose history is deeply intertwined with the powerful A. Guckenheimer & Bros. firm. Guckenheimer acquired the site in 1875 and operated it under the 'Pennsylvania Distilling Company' name, often referring to it as the Montrose Distillery. The plant, which was rebuilt after a fire in 1899, was one of Guckenheimer's two primary distilleries, focusing on producing their premium 'Montrose' brand and supplying high-quality bulk whiskey to merchants like Joseph R. Peebles' Sons for their house labels. Operating in the 23rd Internal Revenue District, the distillery was a major component of Western Pennsylvania's Pre-Prohibition whiskey industry until the entire Guckenheimer enterprise ceased operations in 1919."
Nose: This is funkadelic right out of the gate. We find vintage clothes racks at the Salvation Army, reminding Nick of a previous tasting of 18 Summers old, I.W. Harper. There's leather with a lively umami beast slumbering cozily next to aromas of orange and clove. Late in the glass there's a slight bitter dark chocolate with crushed graham cracker and waffle breading.
Palate: What beautiful underlying fruit to be tasted here: lemon, cranberry, and apricot just trying to escape the buttery croissant layer that dominates the tongue. Coffee rolls and black pepper are present as well. There is a slight cork flavor, explained by the fact that it's only 8 years old. The finish is long with deep molasses tones.
Further Information: Revisiting this one was the most intriguing, as an initial appreciation for this pour was turned into a feeling that its characteristics didn't match the details of the bottle... How could an 8 year old rye smell so close to an 18 year Kentucky bourbon from a similar era? The answer likely lies in some level of cork degradation. While the base whiskey is still a marvelous experience, this one fell from the peak of memory for this tasting in favor of the more classic Large, Overholt, and Guckenheimer examples from Pennsylvania.
Historic Maryland Ryes
Stewart Distilling Co Carstairs Whiskey 1911-1919
Bottle Information: This blend of whiskies was produced in Highlandtown, a section of Baltimore, Maryland; however, the blending process took place in Philadelphia, which turns out to be an awesome crossover pour for this incredible tasting.
Nose: Noticeably soft and a touch bland, we find room-temperature brie cheese, candied fruits, whipped cream, and vintage candy shop wrappers. There's a flatness to this nose, like that of day-old ginger ale. While we're not offended by the aromas, we're not particularly impressed either.
Palate: Clean and easy with a medicinal quality. There's sweet marshmallow fluff and sugared cherries with a slightly oily characteristic. Further sips produce a rich malt quality, black tea, and lemon. Nick is reminded of a hot toddy, while Jes is reminded that Maryland ryes seem to lean a bit more sweet than robust.
Further Thoughts: Having explored a range of Maryland ryes during our inaugural Vintage Whiskey Society tasting in November of 2024, we had our expectations primed, namely that Maryland ryes are sweeter. We learned during our first taste of Maryland's in this rye tasting that it's not necessarily because of more corn in the mashbill, as one might think to assume. According to Sam Komlenic, Pre-Prohibition ryes from Pennsylvania and Maryland would likely be near replicas of each other, which notably changes Post-Prohibition when the extra corn is introduced in the mash bills of Maryland producers. If you're curious to learn more, Laura Fields wrote an exceptional piece on the history of Carstairs rye whiskey on Dram Devotees.
Spring Dale Baltimore Whiskey Bottled ~1917 - 1919
Bottle Information: This blend of whiskies was bottled by a prominent wholesale liquor merchant and rectifier in Baltimore, Maryland. The firm played a significant role in the city's "Golden Age" of whiskey, best known for their flagship brand, Springdale Pure Rye Whiskey, which they distributed widely before federal laws forced the business to close.
Nose: This leads funky with prune juice, sherry, cherry cordial, and a touch of mothball. Once we reset our nostrils with a nice whiff in our own shirts, there's a pronounced and lovely white lily aroma and a flash-in-the-pan buttery note before that too quickly falls off.
Palate: This tastes better than the nose led on, with graham cracker, dried raspberries, and buttered rye bread sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar. Unfortunately, the tastes fall off quickly, aligned with what we experienced on the nose, and cherry cordial is the dominant note hanging on. The finish is short but full of red fruit.
Further Thoughts: Two blends in a row of Maryland rye have left us a little underwhelmed but not in an off-putting way, rather in a marked way we might expect from Maryland rye—soft and sweet with a touch of spice.
Mount Vernon Pure Rye Whiskey 1906 - 1917
Bottle Information: This is a Cook & Bernheimer bottling, another example similar to the one we cherished from the historic Mount Vernon tasting.
Nose: Immediately, there's a distinct soft white cheese quality going on here, either brie or marzipan alongside a board of fruit. There's a good amount of wood and perfume, which turns fruity, like a raspberry tart, before transforming into a more candied quality. Unfortunately, what we hoped would be an example of a nose holding up nicely with time, this whiskey has been eaten away by it instead.
Palate: The vibrancy of the nose does not translate to the palate. We find ginger, brie, flat root beer, gentle baking spices, and dried cherries. The fruit is present but lands thinner and is not of the same character as the Mount Vernon whiskeys we have sampled previously.
Further Thoughts: Unfortunately this is a prime example that despite all signs pointing to a quality whiskey worth sipping, sometimes due to distillery variation or, perhaps more likely, storage issues during the lifetime of the bottle... you can get a dud bottle. That's part of the risk you take on when you venture into exploring vintage whiskeys! We trust nobody more than the folks of Vintage Whiskey Society to steer us right in this regard.
Monticello Special Reserve Straight Pure Rye Whiskey 1910 - 1915
Bottle Information: Distilled by Monticello Distilling Co. in Baltimore, Maryland. Based on the serial number and with reference to another available bottle, the dates are believed to be between 1910 and 1915.
Nose: Hello, fruit! We find cherry and prune, candied raspberries, and a hint of cinnamon. This is a classic Maryland rye profile, soft with oak and fruit. Swirling releases double bubble bubble gum, a fun note to find.
Palate: Yum, this is landing right where it needs to be with Thanksgiving pie and pop rocks jumping on the tongue. Fruits continue to dominate, with notes of cherry, raisins, and dried cranberry. This is abundantly sweet and down the middle. The finish is medium in length with a linger of amaretto.
Further Information: The flagship Monticello Rye was nationally recognized, and the brand remained popular until 1920 and was even available as a medicinal whiskey during the dry years.
Pikesville Special Pure Rye 1904 - 1917
Bottle Information: Bottled by W.E. Broderick & Co. in Baltimore, Maryland, the Winand & Brothers Distillery was established at Scott's Level (near Pikesville) in 1895. Pikesville Rye became the quintessential Maryland rye whiskey. The distillery closed in 1920 but is notable for being the sole survivor of the Maryland rye style, currently produced by Heaven Hill in Kentucky.
Nose: This is big and beautiful, with a distinct herbal medley of tea leaves, lemon, pine wood, and allspice. Swirling releases sticky honey, freshly baked bread, melted butter, and raspberry candies. There's a lot to explore in this pour, lively for sure!
Palate: This is the perfect drinker. There are cinnamon buns, light breading, spice cake, cream cheese frosting, and lemon slices muddled in hot water. It's complex and poppy, sparkling on our tongues. Wow. Remarkable. The finish is long and lingers with brandy apple tones. The range of flavors holds all the way to the last sip.
Further Thoughts: The volume in the room amplified as we began our exploration of this particular pour. Sometimes it's hard to explain the greatness happening on your tongue, but in this case, the noise from all tasters was explanation enough for us!
Old Sherwood Rye 1907 - 1919
Bottle Information: Bottled by Hopper, McGaw & Co. in Baltimore, Maryland. McGaw was a specialty grocery store in Baltimore. Sherwood Distillery is famous for Sherwood Pure Rye, a brand stockpiled by the U.S. Army Medical Department in the late 19th century for medicinal use. "Xmas 1913" is written in pencil on the label.
Nose: Rich tones are coming off the glass: toasted rye bread, varnish, chair cane, and mashed potatoes. There's a hint of fruit, namely stewed plums, but overall this is balanced and refined, with no heat. Clean vanilla.
Palate: The first taste is silky with raspberry syrup, black tea, cardamom, and allspice. We also find raspberry scone, light sugar, and a hint of malt as we continue to sip. This is the holidays in a glass. It's pretty good! The finish is medium, crisp, and clean.
Further Thoughts: While palate fatigue was surely starting to set in by this point in the tasting, we were impressed that this stood up as well as it did. If there was one bottle we would like to revisit on a fresh palate, it would probably be this one, as some of the conversation around this one seems to have been lost in diverted attentions.
Old Farm Straight Rye Bottled in Bond 1938 - 1943
Bottle Information: This bottle was distilled at Carthage Distillery in Cincinnati, Ohio, but with historic roots to the brand that was built in the building we were tasting in, this was an epic bottle to have present. You can see the name proudly painted on the outside brick wall of the West Overton Distilling Co. building, which now houses their museum.
Nose: This is earthy! We find leather, barnyard hay, and a fun funkiness, like smoked ham and an empty glass of root beer. It's soft with powdered sugar, cinnamon apples, clove, and a hint of anise. This is a mighty fun nose.
Palate: Melons and apricot jelly lead the way, followed by rye toast, peaches, and a whiff of soy sauce. There's also a light demerara rum characteristic here as well, along with saltine crackers. As we continue to sip, the black pepper and allspice build. The finish is rich with proof as well as cream and sherry.
Further Information: Tasting an Old Farm Pure Rye while on the property where this brand was invented was truly a treat, and it put a feather in the cap of Vintage Whiskey Society co-founder Curt Koclun's tremendous efforts to put together a meaningful and enlightening tasting on all things Pennsylvania and Maryland rye.
Key takeaways from the tasting & community discussion:
1: Pre-Prohibition Pennsylvania and Maryland ryes have more similarities than differences.
Through our tastings and discussions, it became clear that historic PA and MD ryes were often near replicas in terms of mash bills, primarily rye and malted barley without significant corn additions, challenging modern misconceptions. Sam Komlenic emphasized this point quite emphatically, noting, "the difference between PA and MD ryes? THERE IS NONE!" That is, at least pre-Prohibition, while Laura Fields clarified that post-1950s changes, like those influenced by Dave Pickerell for brands such as Pikesville, introduced corn that altered profiles. Greg Cloyd supported this, highlighting that early farmstead pot-distilled ryes were unique expressions beyond simple categorization, with slight regional nuances like MD's subtle sweetness versus PA's robust spice emerging only in 20th-century and later examples.
2: Rectification practices shaped flavor profiles in this era.
Laura Fields provided key insights during the Humphrey & Martin Bouquet tasting, explaining how some rectifiers would pool resources and occasionally add flavorings like prune juice or spices for market appeal, transforming "pure rye" into something more like a cocktail or liqueur on rare occasions. This was not the most common practice, as reputable producers would want to maintain the true meaning of "Pure Rye". Evidence of this limited adultering practice was evident in the Bouquet bottle's Demerara rum and Christmas spice notes, which the group, including Seth Weinberg, who called it a "historically fascinating cocktail," agreed made it lively but not strictly straight "Pure Rye". Fields also noted this rectification practice would have had equal exposure across PA, MD, KY, and beyond with bottlers deciding based on value and their target market whether to keep the whiskey pure or blend it.
3: Storage and time can dramatically affect bottle quality.
Tasting thoroughly revealed the risks of vintage whiskey, as seen in the Mount Vernon Pure Rye (1906-1917), which appeared faded due to potential storage issues or distillery variations, turning vibrant expectations into thinner, less complex sips. Mark Wade echoed this in discussions, lamenting a "life-changing pour" from a prior bottle versus this one's battle with time. Similarly, the Sweet Hickory Rye (1908-1916) showed cork degradation, mimicking older bourbon traits and dividing opinions, loved by some like Vanoy for its funk but critiqued by Josh Feldman for a "dank ivy" rancidity note, underscoring Greg Cloyd's reminder that lighter styles struggle against robust ones like Old Overholt depending on the sequencing of pours.
4: There were standout bottles that exemplified classic Monongahela and Maryland styles.
Consensus from the group highlighted pinnacle pours like the 1916-1930 Old Overholt Rye, praised by Greg Cloyd for its "incredible oily, creamy spreading" qualities and rich Monongahela flavor, scoring a 93 from Josh Feldman for its complex fruity, herbal, and spiced profile. The 1914-1920 Good Old Guckenheimer also shone, with Feldman rating it 92 for its fermented prune and balsamic notes, while Jes revisited it as a favorite. With reflection, it praise also mounted for the 1913-1919 Large Monongahela Pure Rye. For Maryland, the Pikesville Special Rye (1904-1917) amplified room excitement, described by Hillel Leitner as "apple brandy" and "honey apple crisp," earning a 91 from Feldman; Johnny Hirschbuehler added the Old Sherwood Rye (1907-1919) to his top five for its delicate holiday spices, aligning with Cloyd's view of its consistency across bottles.
5: The whiskey community thrives on generosity and shared knowledge.
The event's success stemmed from acts of kindness and a willingness to listen, learn, and contribute to group discussions in order to glean relevant information from the 125 years of history we were lucky enough to have tasted through. The discussions post-tasting only amplified this, with Josh crediting the group's "cosmic wisdom" as a linchpin for the triumphant conquering of so many historically interesting drams. The banter was equally entertaining, with Josh Feldman playfully offering another new nickname for Greg, who can surely dish his own ribbings when he's in charge of the tasting. While Curt Kolcun might more typically be found quietly contributing collected treasures, his leadership in this tasting was on full display when we found every dirty detail of the weekend had been thoughtfully curated, planned, and coordinated for the attendees. Curt later reflected on the tasting, noting the divergent views, such as those on the Sweet Hickory, as enriching to the broader conversation of vintage whiskey. Overall, contributions from experts like Sam Komlenic, Laura Fields, and all of the brilliant attendees that come from many different walks of life created a roadmap for future historians, writers, and distillers, as Cloyd rightfully praised, solidifying Vintage Whiskey Society's leading role in elevating the modern rye renaissance.
We're incredibly grateful to have been invited to share in all of these incredible drams, but it was really the people that made the trip out to Pennsylvania such an incredible experience. Many thanks again to our dear friends from the Vintage Whiskey Society specifically, and we look forward to seeing you at the next event! If you're curious to learn more about what we discovered on our tours of Iron City Distilling, Liberty Pole Spirits, and West Overton Distilling, make sure you stay up to date with all things Amongst the Whiskey!
Written by: The Amongst the Whiskey Team
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