Wheat's Next on the Pedestal of the Heritage Collection: Heaven Hill 19 Year Wheat Whiskey Review
- Nick Anderson
- Aug 3
- 5 min read
“Old age and treachery will always overcome youth and exuberance.”
- David Mamet
It seems that everybody is releasing older and older whiskey these days. Particularly poised for success in this category would be legacy distilleries like Heaven Hill, which has been family owned and operated since their founding in 1935. Having survived the wartime rationing of World War II, the whiskey glut of the late 20th century, and their catastrophic 1996 distillery fire, Heaven Hill shines today with more than a few tales to tell about their storied past. Their rickhouses, though likely plumbed deeply during the pandemic-era boom in barrel picks, remain full of aging whiskey—over 2 million barrels, with more on the way. It's the solemn honor and duty of current master distiller Conor O'Driscoll to craft a great blend using the barrels that were distilled and laid down under the late, great Parker Beam. It's also his duty to keep those rickhouses stocked up for future generations, though I think they have enough to spare with the 277 barrels that went into this blend. The barrels selected were filled in August and September of 2005, where they sat for 19 long years on the 5th and 6th floors of rickhouse Y.
“This 19-year-old Kentucky Straight Wheat Whiskey is especially unique, as a product with this mashbill at this age offers an exceptional depth and complexity that is rarely seen,” says Master Distiller Conor O’Driscoll. “It truly represents the high standard that Heaven Hill is known for and is a great example of how craftsmanship and patience can pay off when you’re willing to wait for the highest-quality product to come from the whiskey-making process.”
So why wheat whiskey? It's not a broadly produced whiskey category, but one that we have seen from Heaven Hill before. There have been many releases of wheated bourbon, differentiated only by a subtle difference in the majority grain (corn for bourbon, wheat for wheat whiskey). The Larceny and Old Fitzgerald lines are common examples of wheated bourbon you may have seen or tasted. For wheat whiskey, we've only ever seen niche releases from the Parker's Heritage Collection and the Bernheim line, the latter of which was introduced in 2005 and extended into barrel-proof territory in 2023. Investing in this area as a limited, specialty release was nothing short of bold.
Perhaps there were signals that suggested market demand for more wheat whiskey, but from the age statement delirium, as well as a long love for the vanilla-forward bourbon that Heaven Hill traditionally produces, this whiskey enthusiast was interested enough to fork over a few Benjamins to find out for myself. Let's get into it.
Company on Label: Heaven Hill
Whiskey Type: Kentucky straight wheat whiskey
Mash Bill Percentages: 51% wheat, 37% corn, 12% malted barley
Proof: 100°
Age: 19 years
MSRP: $300
Further identification: This is the 2025 release of the Heritage Collection, the 4th in this modern series
Nose: On first lifting the well-rested glass to my nose, I find rich flan, laced with a kiss of sweet maraschino cherry. The yawning array of aromas that present while I continue to inhale are dominated by old rickhouse wood and leather in all the best ways for a whiskey of this stature. In the left nostril, tendrils of earthy, delicate Hungarian paprika coil upwards; in the right, splashes of sweet nectarine juice. As I return to equal opportunity nosing, I find the air of Kentucky in my glass as sweet tea comes through clear as day. Scents of peaches and cream follow quickly behind in a subtle, sultry little development that piques my intrigue. This is one of those glasses you could just nose forever. With a swirl, the fruity tones vanish behind a disturbed layer of allspice and dust, like running a horsehair brush over an old plank stored high in the barn. Flashes of vanilla custard and a little bit of the "it" factor leave me a thoroughly happy man. Coming back from a sip makes the glass lean a touch more savory, like we've just begun the main course at Watch Hill Proper, and I've surely brought my appetite for duck. Deep inhales late in the glass continue to be both approachable and enjoyable as caster sugar and ebony silkily slide through the nostrils. The empty glass smells of pancake batter and Nilla wafers.
Palate: On first sip, the entirety of my mouth is consumed by the experience. Vibrant peach flambé reverberates on the taste buds in the midpalate, while vanilla frosting tinges the sides. The gums tingle with the sensation of biting into some cool, sweet treat in the dead heat of summer. Lingering in every nook and cranny is the same nectarine tone that the nose led with. Another small sip reveals warm cherry dump cobbler, grilled peaches, and angel food cake dusted with confectioners' sugar. A long sip and swish proves the inherent drinkability of this whiskey while also putting peach scones and puffy crêpes on full display. The dominant characteristic here is definitely that sweet peach, and I have to say, I can't recall another whiskey quite like this. Tasting near the bottom of the glass is head-shakingly enjoyable—a disbelief at the balance, complexity, and quality of the pour as a touch of apricot and candied cinnamon almonds gracefully land on the tongue and in the mind. My last sip is exquisite, like the delicate flower of utmost beauty that you dare not touch. It features applewood-smoked pineapple and a strong finish up in the gums with sweet cantaloupe.
TL;DR: A refreshingly different release that shines in its own peach-laden lane
Rating: 4.5/5
The uniqueness of the peach tones this whiskey produced, as well as the complex evolution it underwent throughout the duration of my tasting, left me particularly impressed. In comparison to some of the other releases in the Heritage Collection, I'd say this lands right in line with both the 17 year bourbon and the 18 year release I previously reviewed. Trying to power rank them further would just be an exercise in nitpicking; all of these whiskeys have been tremendous.
