From Calamity to Cohesiveness: Jefferson's Marian McLain 2.0 Bourbon Review
- Jes Smyth
- Sep 16
- 6 min read
Updated: Sep 16
"There is nothing new in the world except the history you do not know."
— Harry S Truman
When you sip on the whiskey of today, you may also find yourself opening a door to a nuanced view of American history. Often, brands will feature a historical figure on their packaging, leaning into their unique history of whiskey-making as a way of meaningful marketing. Whether the stories are true and verified, or whether they're simply lore passed down from generation to generation, pouring a whiskey in 2025 usually comes with a history lesson or, at the very least, a good story.
As an author, I'm often intrigued by brands that come with some kind of captivating history. Lucky for me, most do, including Jefferson's Bourbon. Founded in 1997 by Trey Zoeller and bourbon historian Chet Zoeller, Jefferson's Bourbon is known for being a blending house rather than a singular distillery. Sourcing bourbon from Kentucky, Indiana, and Tennessee, Jefferson's likes to push boundaries while remaining grounded in tradition. Maybe grounded isn't the best word to use here, given their popular Jefferson's Ocean release, where bourbon barrels were aged at sea, but you get my point. They're balancing heritage—what makes bourbon what it is (legal definitions, mash bills, barrels, etc)—with innovation.
"I like to say we push the boundaries of bourbon without bastardizing it." —Trey Zoeller, quote attributed from The Daily Beast
I'm not sure Trey's 8th-generation grandmother would approve of such language, however, Marian McLain is considered one of the earliest documented women in US whiskey history, so she might not bat an eyelash. In fact, she's the inspiration behind the brand Jefferson's, and she might very well approve of her 8x great-grandson's choice of words. Linguistics aside, I was pleasantly intrigued by Marian McLain's vibrant history, a discovery I equally enjoyed learning about through the leather-bound neck tag that came with this bottle. It's quite the story and will shed light on why I think she may not give two hoots about foul language. If you're interested, I provide a brief overview below.
Following the American Revolution, and facing the war debt of those times, war-widowed mother of five, Marican McLain, saw the rise in demand for spirits and began distilling and selling whiskey. When the government placed a "whiskey tax" on the sales of the spirit, Marian refused to pay, needing every cent to survive, and was soon arrested and imprisoned for her offense. These records make her the first woman on record to sell whiskey in America — kind of badass, right? Excuse my language (maybe), Marian.
The bottle up for review is the second release of Jefferson's Marian McLain blend, the first having come and gone in 2023. There are a few key differences that make this release a standout from its predecessor—notably, the shift toward roughly 62% 13-year Kentucky bourbon in the 5-barrel blend. There are also more finishing nuances compared to the 2023 release; the proof increased from 103 to 106, and the flavor profile has also transformed, which is understandable given the absence of Tennessee whiskey in contrast to roughly 21% in the 2023 blend. Also of note is the change in master blender, which was modified from co-founder Trey Zoeller to master blender Ale Acoha.
"Creating Marian McLean was about creating a spirit that feels alive with history and heart. Each of the five distinct bourbons was selected for its unique flavor and complexity. As a woman in the craft today, it's rewarding to help bring attention to someone like Marian, who helped laid the foundation centuries ago." — Ale Acoha
I'm certainly on board with this logic, and for that, I will absolutely raise a glass to Marian with any friend who will dare to share this bottle with me. A special thanks goes out to the folks at Jefferson's for the opportunity to taste their product. I'm curious to explore what this release has to offer, so let's dive in!
Company on Label: Jefferson's Bourbon
Whiskey Type: A blend of straight Kentucky & Indiana bourbon whiskeys
Mash Bill Percentages: Undisclosed
Proof: 106°
Age: 9 years (a blend of 9, 11 & 13 year bourbons)
MSRP: $300
Further Identification: This five barrel blend includes Kentucky 13 year bourbon (62%), Indiana 11 year wheated double oaked bourbon (15%), Kentucky rye barrel wine finish (11%), Kentucky rye barrel rum finish, (6%), and Kentucky 9 year bourbon (6%)
Nose: Right away, I feel a warm welcome from the aromas wafting out of my glass. Silky caramel and juicy pineapples make for a familiar yet enticing start, alongside wheat germ pancakes, powdered sugar, and sliced caramelized bananas. If you're envisioning a brunch buffet, then you and I are on the same page, dear reader. As time passes, the aromas evolve into more of what you find in a spice cabinet, notably ground cinnamon and black pepper, which are now old and expired. Swirling the liquid in my glass releases a hint of oiled leather and coconut husk. If you imagine someone wearing all their jewelry all at once—necklaces, bracelets, rings, (you get the point)—then you have a great visual representation of this nosing experience. It has my attention, and it's likely to draw the attention of others, possibly even raising an eyebrow. Yet, so far, the layering of aromas is presenting cohesively. I'm curious to find out if the palate aligns, so onward I sip!
Returning to the nose after several sips has sharpened the aromas; the proof is evident as I inhale, much more than before. It certainly has taken on a new form, though, rather quickly, with baking spices and apple pie filling occupying my glencarin. The empty glass smells of mocha latte foam and apple-scented candle wax.
Palate: Oh, wow. That double-barreled Indiana wheat component is singing on my tongue. It's softly sweet, with notes of melted milk chocolate atop graham crackers with a sprinkling of granulated sugar. Mid-palate brings in pineapples and shaved coconut before transforming seamlessly into cinnamon candy on the back end. The flavors are pronounced in a subtle and well-practiced way. On the linger, I find the most funk: wet leather, shaved oak bark, and slices of ginger atop a summer fruit salad. The only qualm I have currently is the slight drying effect on the back of my throat. So, more sips it is! As I continue to explore, the silky texture remains consistent. The age begins to layer onto my tongue, presenting with hints of soft leather, tobacco, and red fruits. This pour absolutely has kept my attention as it morphs into more savory notes of roasted tomato and chopped basil. Closer to the end of my glass, the sweetness loses steam as cinnamon and ginger become more chatty, drowning out the silky texture. My last sip is how my first sip ended, with cinnamon and spice loud and clear, but overall, I feel comfortable with where this whiskey has taken me.
TL;DR: Old bourbon blends with unconventional components for an attention-keeping sip
Rating: 4/5
Story time: My co-writer asked me for my thoughts after my first tasting. I told him I was "surprised by it". Jefferson's Bourbon is a brand that I don't typically seek. I tried a few examples early on, and unfortunately, those experiences weren't positive enough for me to go back. When he asked why I was surprised by this particular bottle, I told him the ugly truth: "I wondered if the five-barrel blend on a mainly 13 year old whiskey was to cover up not-so-great 13 year old whiskey." Turns out, this isn't a cover-up at all but a great example of a well-done five barrel blend.
To those new or returning to Jefferson's Bourbon, I highly recommend trying this. It's welcoming enough for those just starting their whiskey journey and will keep the attention of those who appreciate the skill that goes into a cohesive whiskey blend.
