Green River Full Proof Wheated Bourbon Whiskey Review: I Found Great Notes with Practiced Patience
- Jes Smyth
- 14 hours ago
- 5 min read
High proof fanatics, rejoice! Green River Distilling Co. is expanding its award-winning lineup with the launch of Wheated Full Proof Bourbon. In their press release, Green River mentions why the wheated recipe was next in line for their full proof designation:
"Wheated bourbon represents roughly one-third of the North American Bourbon market, with growth projected through 2031, even as average prices continue to climb across the category (Allied Market Research). At the same time, enthusiast demand has increasingly tilted toward higher proof offerings, with 100+ proof bourbons dominating many top rankings and full-proof releases showing strong growth across the category."
Why is full proof (also interchangeable with cask strength or barrel proof) such a hot commodity? If you ask Dan Callaway, master blender at Green River, he will tell you that the full proof wheated bourbon "gives fans a richer, more intense experience of the wheated bourbon they already love."
It's pretty simple. The higher the proof, the less water is added to the whiskey, making it more flavorful. The lower the proof, the more water is added to already aged whiskey. Now, there are certain practices, like low barrel entry proof, that preserve flavors while maintaining a lower proof, resulting in a less "watered down" taste or mouthfeel, but for the most part, brands add water after the whiskey has aged. Introducing the water at the same time as the whiskey is introduced to the barrel for aging is what low barrel entry proof essentially entails.
For more information on low barrel entry proof, check out this past review.
So, it comes as no surprise that higher proof whiskey is generally favored among those in the whiskey community. Personally, I love comparing and contrasting a higher-proof version of the same mashbill. Sometimes the full proof offering wins the race. Other times, the lower proof version takes the trophy home. Higher proof does not automatically mean the whiskey will be better or even have more flavor. Sometimes it just means more alcohol. But since every palate is different, the mileage will vary.
The proof is in the taste, though, isn't it? Which starts with our willingness to sit with a pour and be patient as the liquid acclimates to the room's oxygen and the temperature of the glass, and adjusts to the manipulation of its form: through swirling and sipping, for example. With intention, a pour can offer much more than what you would expect to find in a glass of bourbon, rye, or malt. It is with this mindset of practiced patience that I approach all of my whiskey reviews.
Which brings us to the fun part: tasting the first batch of Green River Full Proof Wheated bourbon! Thanks to the fine people at Green River Distilling Co., I am able to taste this sample ahead of its public release. Will this be a bottle you will want to hunt down this year? Read on to find out!
Company on Label: Green River Distilling Co.
Whiskey Type: Kentucky straight wheated bourbon
Mash Bill Percentages: 70% corn, 21% wheat, 9% malted barley
Proof: 109.3°
Age: 5 years (5 to 7 years)
MSRP: $49.99
Further Identification: Green River Distilling will present batches at variable proofs, ranging from 109 to 116, with the initial batch bottled at 109.3 proof
Nose: Some whiskies lead with a texture in the nose, and this one definitely does: sweet and soft. The aromas are a bit reserved, especially for a higher proof whiskey. What I can pick out at the moment is what I would expect: caramel syrup, powdered sugar, and a dusting of ground cinnamon. I decide to set my glass down for a few more minutes to see what transpires, and find that after those extra few minutes, it is pleasant and encouraging: melted butter, notes of vanilla frosting, candied ginger, and crushed sweet tarts. It's rather mouth-watering, and I'm eager to sip, but I'm curious what else the aromas have in store for me if I sit and let them relax inside my glass. The sweetness develops into richer tones over time, with notes of buttercream frosting and vanilla pudding balanced beautifully with the cinnamon and pepper wood spice. As more time passes, more notes pop up: muddled strawberries, browning Honey Crisp apple slices, and a whiff of floral perfume. I'm eager to taste now. The aromas have transformed into tones I find in older aged whiskies after I return from a few sips. I find oiled leather, clay, and notebook paper. As the liquid continues to disappear, the wood spice ramps up, turning the aromas a bit hotter than my initial experience. The empty glass smells like tootsie roll wrappers, dusty dirt, and wildflowers.
Palate: Immediately, I'm overtaken by how wonderful this mouthfeel is with complementary flavors of soft sweetness. There are sweet tarts, vanilla frosting, and cinnamon buns. The whiskey in my mouth doesn't feel too hot on my fresh palate, and slides down my throat nicely with a welcomed warmth this cold afternoon. The linger reminds me of pancake crumbs soaked in honey with a cup of black tea on the side. This is good. Another sip amplifies the fruit and wood tones, with sliced apples covered in ground cinnamon, a side of toasted wheat bread, and melted butter. Additional sips have my shoulders dancing, transporting me to the early evening hours of an outdoor music festival where lightning bugs blink in rhythm to the music. As I near the end of my tasting experience, I'm pleased that the flavors have remained rich and well-rounded. The flavors continue to complement each other in a crushable way, which is a testament to this hour-long sit.
TL;DR: A lovely, sweet bourbon with the right amount of heat and spice
Rating: 4/5
Really good. I want one of these on my shelf.
When a full proof option of an already-favorite lower proof offering comes onto the scene, the buzz it generates can be quite exciting. I admit that the 90-proof bottle of Green River's Wheated Bourbon isn't on my shelf, but bet your bottom dollar I'll be searching for both the original and the full proof offerings as soon as possible!
